On this page you will find the complete resurfacing process for a "basic" application. Things you might also encounter during this process that are not listed here can include;
Mosaics, crack repairs, spillovers replaced, rebar repairs, new light fixtures etc.
Please take the time to read through as this is very important stuff that any homeowner considering a resurface needs to know. (Copies of information will be supplied with your free estimate). Some information requires a signature from the homeowner showing that they read and understand completely.
The Pool Resurfacing Process
1. Homeowner will stop chemicals from being introduced and equipment will be shut off (at least 1 week prior to draining). This will cause pool to turn green and therefore the water will be safer to drain back into the surrounding enviroment.
2. We will drain the swimming pool using a gas or electric powered pump.
3. The main drain plug will be removed and any underground water will be safely monitored.
4. Tile will be undercut and the existing plaster will be chiseled down about 2" below the tile. (This ensures a flush meeting of the new plaster with the tile). In situations where we can install new tile over the old tile, this step will be unnecessary.
5. Fittings, lights & lines will all be chipped around also to ensure a flush surface. Once chipped, they will be thoroughly sealed with Pool Patch, a hydraulic material to prevent (but not guarantee against) future leaking.
6. Existing pool surface will be checked for hollows and any found will be removed with a chipping hammer. If pool currently has fiberglass or is painted, this is the point it will be sandblasted.
7. Your pool will then be pressure cleaned. (Possibly with acid if algae and scum is present)
8. SGM Bond-Kote will be generously applied. This step in the process is one of the most important, being it is the step that "glues" the current surface to the new surface. SGM Bond Kote is recommended to dry for at least 24 hours prior to the actual plastering process.
1. Surface will be once again checked for hollows, and any found will be removed. Often times in older pools, hollows will appear the next day while pool is drained and exposed. Better safe than sorry!
2. A new main drain frame & grate will be installed. We, as a licensed pool company, are required to install a new anti-vortex main drain cover when there is currently a flat one. We realize a lot of homeowners wish to keep their flat covers for the simple fact that automatic pool cleaners sometimes get stuck on the new anti-vortex covers. This is totally up to you to re-install the flat cover once our job is complete, but we do not recommend or encourage it.
3. Hoses will be set up, material will be mixed and the 1st coat of Diaomond Brite or River-Rok will be applied. This is referred to as the "scratch coat".
4. A second coat will be applied once the scratch coat has set up sufficiently. This final coat is then HAND TROWELED bringing the thickness of the material to about 3/8".
5. The pool will be removed of excess cream with the use of brushes and water.
6. We then lightly acid wash the entire surface to expose the 3-M color quartz aggregate.
7. Water is re-introduced into your newly plastered swimming pool with the use of filtration tanks that will remove any impurities or metals in the water. We like to use the filter tanks on every application as it adds to many of the steps we take to make sure your pool will have the best outcome possible. The number of tanks used depend on whether you are hooked up to city or well water, the size of your pool and often times the color you choose can affect which tank set up we prefer to use.
8. Although it is likely an automatic shut off will be hooked up to the filling hose, we recommend the homeowner keep a close eye on the water level, and shut off the spicket once the water has reached the middle of the waterline tile. If pool is shut off any earlier than that, a permanent ring can occur and this is solely the resposibility of the homeowner. Please do not allow anyone (humans or pets) in the swimming pool until it has been filled. Also do not turn on your pool light until water is ompletely full.
9. If stated to do so in the agreement, E&M will send in a service company to complete a 3 day chemical start up. This is also a very important step in the process and during these 3 days the homeowner should add absolutely nothing to the pool. Leave the equipment the way the serviceman has it and ask as many questions as you like!
Additional Information - Please Read!
Once the 3 day chemical start up is done, we ask that the homeowner resumes normal chemical service and continues to brush the pool for at least 2 weeks. This continues the exposing process and also adds to the outcome of your pool. We recommend using a brush that has both nylon and metal bristles, which can be purchased at your local pool store or home improvement store.
Brushing the pool twice a day is usually the best, taking the brush from the waterline tile and brushing the sediments/debris down to the main drain. Be sure to clean your filter regularly this first couple weeks as it will get dirty rather quickly.
If you have a salt system installed, or plan on having one installed, please wait until atleast 30 days from the plaster date to start introducing the salt. Until then, use chlorine. One last thing to remember in the curing process (that takes about 30 days) is to not use any wheeled vacuum during that time. Wheeled vacuums could leave lines from its path throughout your pool. Though rare, it does happen and is best to take this precaution as there is not much we can do to help reverse the wheel marks.
Most importantly...sit back, relax and enjoy your beautiful swimming pool!
Here are some photo examples of steps in the process described on this page.Pool Is Being DrainedTile & Coping RemovedNew Tile & Coping Installed Plastered & Filling
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